Specific Challenge:
The main market driver in the textile sector is the fast-growing demand for products and the need to respond to it without a negative environmental impact. The proportion of bio-based textile fibres has been falling steadily for decades, mainly because of the environmental limits of cotton production and the progress made (e.g. in terms of reduced costs) in the field of synthetic fibres. However, over a third of textile fibres are still bio-based.
A shift in the market from petrochemical to bio-based fibres will require new processing technologies and huge market uptake of sustainable bio-based materials other than cotton, wool and silk. Of all natural fibres, cellulose has seen the fastest increase in all textile substrates in recent years. Other all-natural fibres[1] are under development or have been introduced in niche markets. In addition, small proportion of new bio-based polymer fibres[2] can already be found in specific applications.
The challenge is to develop processing technologies and create an innovative and sustainable bio-based textile economy based on circular economy principles, thus making efficient use of resources, radically improving recycling, phasing out plastic microfibre release[3] and accelerating the development and adoption of sustainable circular business models.
Scope:Activities should address:
Work on the sustainability and safety of end products should embrace the use of resources as a whole and incorporate the established standards for products with a small environmental footprint, from life-cycle assessment to eco-labelling. In addition, activities should investigate the elements needed for the development of innovative circular business models for bio-based textiles.
In line with responsible research and innovation principles, activities should support the development of international fora and platforms that facilitate systemic innovation and uptake by enabling actors in the value chains, from industry to civil society and public authorities, to cooperate to improve circularity in the bio-based textiles economy. The interdisciplinary, cross-sectoral approach should also apply to training activities to improve professional skills and competencies, and to support the job creation in the bioeconomy.
Proposal should deliver solutions with work starting at technology readiness level (TRL) 5 and reaching TRL 6 or higher, where technological innovation is involved.
Cooperation with other selected proposals under this topic is encouraged.
The Commission considers that proposals requesting an EU contribution of around EUR 7 million would allow this challenge to be addressed appropriately. This does not preclude the submission and selection of proposals requesting other amounts.
Expected Impact:[1]e.g. alginate fibres, chitin and chitosan fibres, soybean protein fibres, non-food milk casein fibres, spider silk, sisal, hemp and kenaf.
[2]e.g. PLA, PDO or castor oil-based polyamides.
[3]When washed, some synthetic garments release plastic microfibres, of which around half a million tonnes every year contribute to ocean pollution – 16 times more than plastic microbeads from cosmetics.